Growth factors and cytokines are proteins in the human body necessary for stimulating the production and maintenance of healthy skin.
Unlike growth hormones, which affect the whole body, growth factors work on localized areas, aiding, for example, the wound-healing process in skin. Growth factors are produced by all cell types that make up the epidermal and dermal structural components of skin including fibroblasts, keratinocytes and melanocytes. Transitory cells of the hematopoietic system that are associated with skin, such as lymphocytes and macrophages, also produce growth factors that alter skin structure and function.

Growth factors are regulatory proteins that mediate signaling pathways in maintaining healty skin, their function depends on physiological factors in the cell, they may participate in skin rejuvenation at various levels. Cytokines take part in the immune responses and stimulate biochemical pathways that produce skin tissue repair and regeneration. Levels of growth factors and cytokines decrease with age. Growth factors are known to directly initiate activity that promotes skin repair, they interact synergistically and sequentially rather than a single growth factor working alone.

The natural aging process (intrinsic aging) and environmental factors (extrinsic aging) work simultaneously in changing the structure of skin as we grow older. Recent research suggest that the two aging processes have biochemical and molecular pathways that converge around the role of reactive oxygen species (ROS also known as free radicals). ROS are produced after UV radiation which causes reduction of procollagen synthesis, increase of collagen degradation and irregular elastin deposition, manifested as fine lines and wrinkles. This process can potentially be prevented and reversed by providing a corrective blend of growth factors as powerful anti-aging skincare.

The scientists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini discovered the Epithelial Growth Factor (EGF). They were awarded a Nobel Prize in Medicine in 1986 for their work in understanding the role of EGF in cell biology. Their research laid the groundwork for current clinical applications of EGF in helping skin conditions and reversing the signs of aging in humans. To put it simply, EGF is known to considerably increase skin cell regeneration. In studies, it has been shown that EGF significantly helps in the healing of wounds on the cornea of the eye and on the skin. EGF also helps in the growth and regeneration of many different cells in the body, including fibroblasts, liver, vascular, thyroid, ovary, and pituitary gland cells.

Understanding the role of Growth factors has not only proven to be directly related to understanding many cell developmental processes and diseases, but it also has direct application in helping someone to obtain a more youthful and vibrant look without expensive plastic surgery.

Clinical trials since 1986 have expanded our knowledge of Growth Factors to include not only EGF, but other major human growth factors as well (TGF-b(1-3), PDFG, GM-CSF and Interleukins). Local application of Human Growth Factors can be used in areas of the human body damaged in surgery, burns, wounds, or accidents. Research has indicated that human growth factors, when applied to wounds or burns, increased the rate at which the wound or burn healed. Human growth factors helped to facilitate changes at the cellular level to revert the damaged cells to a younger state, healing the damaged skin in the process. Cosmetic patents of early human growth factor technology were first issued in 1994.

In 2001, two independent double blind studies presented to the Society of Investigative Dermatology in Washington, D. C. had tested topical creams containing natural and bioengineered human growth factor. Both were found to produce better results on skin than expensive plastic surgery or Botox, when used twice daily for 4-6 weeks. Skin cells that have aged absorb the human growth factor nutrients and transform back into vibrant young skin cells, giving the user a more youthful look, especially in their facial area. Each study showed significant increases in production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, fibroblasts, and epidermal thickness. In the early 2000s there were stumbling blocks to making the technology widely available: costs of bioengineering human growth factors derived from human sources; stabilizing shelf life of naturally sourced human growth factors; and purifying the human growth factors to smell and feel pleasing to the nose as well as the skin were the biggest hurdles.

With the new patented production methods of Orf Genetics, recombinant human growth factors can now be produced in a plant system, the product being recombinant human growth factor barley extract. As a result the source of growth factors is less risky and the product is more stable and economical.